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Phra Pradaeng Songkran

Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakan ยท Weekend after Songkran ยท Free to attend

  • ๐ŸŽญ Mon heritage
  • ๐Ÿ’ฆ Gentler Songkran
  • ๐Ÿ“ธ Traditional dress
  • ๐Ÿš‡ Day trip from Bangkok

A short ride south of Bangkok, the district of Phra Pradaeng holds the oldest and most intact Songkran in the country, and almost no foreign visitor has heard of it. The community here is Mon โ€” an ethnic group that predates the Thai in this region โ€” and their new year celebration kept the ceremonies that the national festival long ago traded for water pistols.

Mon traditional-dress procession, 2009
Mon traditional-dress procession, 2009 Photo: Htawmonzel, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Who the Mon are

The Mon are one of mainland Southeast Asia's oldest peoples, with a civilisation in what is now Burma and central Thailand that long predates the Thai kingdoms. Communities resettled around Phra Pradaeng over the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, and the district has maintained a distinct Mon identity โ€” language, dress, temple architecture and this festival โ€” ever since.

That is the reason to come. Phra Pradaeng Songkran is not a quieter version of the Thai festival; it is a different tradition that happens at the same time of year.

What happens

The centrepiece is a long procession through the district: Mon women in traditional dress carrying offerings, young men in distinctive costume, floats, drums and dance troupes, moving between the temples.

The ceremonies around it are the older layer of Songkran. Scented water is poured over Buddha images and over the hands of elders. Sand is carried into temple grounds to build pagodas. And in the release of swans and fish, captive birds and fish are set free as an act of merit โ€” one of the most photographed moments of the festival and specific to this community.

There is also a courting game, saba, played between young men and women with wooden discs, which has largely disappeared elsewhere.

When it happens

Phra Pradaeng deliberately runs after the national holiday, usually the following weekend, so the two do not compete.

YearDatesNotes
2027The weekend after 13โ€“15 AprilSet by the district each year
2028The weekend after 13โ€“15 Aprilโ€”

A different kind of Songkran

This is not a water fight. There is water, but it is poured respectfully rather than fired from a pressure hose, and arriving dressed for Khao San will leave you conspicuous.

Dates are set by the district each year and announced locally, usually for the weekend following the national holiday. Confirm before you make the trip.

Phra Pradaeng is a working suburb with very little tourist infrastructure. Come for the day from Bangkok rather than trying to stay nearby.

Getting there

From Bangkok: BTS Green Line south to Pu Chao, then a short taxi or motorbike ride into Phra Pradaeng. The district sits in a loop of the Chao Phraya just south of the city. 45โ€“60 min.

From Bang Krachao: Cross-river ferries connect Phra Pradaeng with Bang Krachao, the green area known as Bangkok's lung, which makes an easy pairing for the same day. 5 min crossing.

What else is nearby

Phra Pradaeng sits beside Bang Krachao, the loop of the Chao Phraya left largely undeveloped and known as Bangkok's green lung. Cross-river ferries connect the two in a few minutes.

Bang Krachao is best explored by bicycle on its raised concrete paths through mangrove and orchard, and the Bang Nam Phueng floating market runs at weekends โ€” which is when the festival falls. Pairing the two makes an easy, unusual day out of the city that very few visitors manage.

Mon heritage in the area

The Mon presence here is visible beyond the festival. Phra Samut Chedi, the leaning white chedi across the river, and several Mon-founded temples around the district carry architecture and decoration distinct from central Thai style.

Wat Song Tham and Wat Phaichayon Phon Sep are both worth a look if you are already there, and the district's older streets still carry Mon script on some signage.

What it costs

Free. Transport from central Bangkok is a BTS fare plus a short ride, and the ferry across to Bang Krachao costs a few baht. Bicycle hire in Bang Krachao is inexpensive by the hour.

There is no reason to stay overnight and very little accommodation if you wanted to. This is a half-day trip that becomes a full day if you add Bang Krachao.

Why go

Because it is the single easiest way to see what Songkran looked like before it became a water fight, and it is an hour from central Bangkok.

If you are in Thailand for the April holiday and the national version has worn you out, this is the antidote โ€” a day of processions, costume and ceremony with barely another foreign face in the crowd. Pair it with Songkran proper for the contrast, which is the whole point.

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